Jade Field, our budding ultra-distance legend, adventure rep and blogger has collated an article exploring the women of the 2022 Highland Trail. With the most women ever to hit the start line of the mass start event, she's investigated what it means to race this mammoth route.
The Highland Trail 550 is a self-supported mountain biking, individual time trial (ITT) route which takes in 550 miles and over 16,000m of the best (and hardest) off-road that the Scottish Highlands has to offer. Incredible views, steep hike-a-bike, tough technical trails and remote wilderness are promised, as well as the potential for four seasons of weather in one day. Many finishers have described it as life-changing, and many riders who start the route don’t finish.
There is a yearly group start in late May, and this year will see significantly more women on the start line than ever before, in part due to Alan’s efforts to move towards gender parity (thanks Alan!). Currently, there are 24 women signed up, including two route veterans, Andrea Rodgers and Dawn Anderson. In the last 7 years (2020 didn’t see a mass start due to Covid) only 18 women have finished following the mass start, with a high of 5 finishers in 2017 and a low of 0 finishers in 2013. According to the stats available on https://highlandtrail550.weebly.com, there have been 202 finishers since 2013, so just 9% of finishers since then have been women. I think, 2022 will bring a new record high for the number of women crossing the finish line.
The current women’s fastest known time (FKT) was set by Lee Craigie in 2018, who managed to smash round the route in three days, 20 hours and 53 minutes, and come second overall. She describes the Highland Trail as “meditation in motion, ” making racing sound rather relaxing. In recent years we have started to see women around the world win Ultra Endurance races outright. In 2016, Lael Wilcox won the Trans Am, in 2019 Fiona Kolbinger won the Transcontinental and in 2021 Leah Goldstein won the Race Across America. Could 2022 bring the same for the HT550?
2021 saw bike-packing legend Annie Le (@a_girl_outside) be the first woman back in May before she also became the first person to complete a winter HT550 in late November and the only person ever to ride the HT550 twice in one year. She won’t be on the start line as a racer this year, but I have heard some very interesting rumours suggesting that she might be there for other exciting reasons! (Photo by Huw Oliver)
There are some well–known names signed up for this year’s HT550 – including Naomi Freireich, who holds the women’s FKT on the West Highland Way, Philippa Battye, who came 5th in GBduro in 2021, Alice Lemkes, who came 7th in GBduro in 2021, and Eliza Sampey, who set a women’s FKT on the Arizona Trail 750 in 2019, among many other familiar names. Competition is going to be fierce, but every HT550 woman I’ve had a chat with has mentioned both how exciting it is that there will be so many women at the start, and that they are really looking forward to meeting them all! In 2021 GBduro had an equal split of men and women in the top ten finishers, including Philippa and Alice. Here’s hoping that this soon become the norm for ultra-endurance races as we get more women to the start line.
I’m going to be one of the women on the start line this year, and I decided to reach out to my fellow racers. I sent out a selection of questions and asked people to pick some of them that they wanted to answer. I found the questions picked to be nearly as interesting as the answers – racers seem very keen to talk about their competitiveness (or lack thereof), sleeping plans and what they are looking forward to. I’ve also answered a couple of my own questions – sorry!
So, here are some of the Women of the 2022 HT550.
Lorah Pierre (@lorahpierre) – The filth covered half of Neighbourhood Gravel (@neighbourhoodgravel).
Where do you normally ride?
Living in Brighton, I have the privilege of enjoying the South Downs. Relentless up and downs. Dusty when dry, greasy when wet.
What is the most miserable you’ve ever been while riding?
The last 30 miles of Walesduro21 was a real low point. Torrential downpour for nearly two whole days, and not changing my riding kit had resulted in wearing holes in my arse cheeks. Codeine wasn’t taking the edge off my left knee anymore. I couldn’t sit down or stand up without pain erupting from somewhere. I was desperate for a piss, but with the combination of rain and pain I just couldn’t face stopping. Needless to say I took pleasure in pissing myself.
But generally, the realisation and guilt that I’m miles away from my kids on a multi–day ride is always a mental hurdle.
How many pairs of socks are you planning on taking?
As many socks as there are rivers.
Dawn Anderson (@dawnmtb) – Cairngorms lass, happiest outdoors in the hills be it on bike or foot. Slow. Have been known to be stubborn. Though I prefer determined.
Why HT550?
Why not? It makes sense, a challenging route in my “back yard” moving through some of my favourite places on a bike – what’s not to love? Also, the minor detail of last year’s scratch to put right…..
What are you most looking forward to?
Good weather. Oh wait, it’s the HT550 group start….. I’ll settle for well earned Lochinver pies if the opening times work out. The veggie haggis pie is especially tasty, washed down with a pear, almond and dark chocolate pie – is this the ultimate bike packing resupply? Should set me up nicely for the wee wander with the bike below one of my favourite hills.
How competitive would you say you are?
With others or myself? Very different answers. Not competitive but I enjoy (if that’s the right word) pushing myself.
How would you describe yourself as a cyclist?
Smiley! A slow and steady cyclist happiest in upland landscapes. What could be better than long days riding dawn to dusk watching a landscape change and unfold? The more beautiful, remote and rugged the terrain the better. Especially if there’s interesting wildlife for company – I love birds!
Alex Crawley (@ahcrawley) – I’m Alex and I live in the Cairngorm National Park. I work as a mixed practice vet and base my lifestyle around mountain biking, kayaking and exploring my epic backyard. There is an amazing outdoor community in the Cairngorms so I am never short of inspiration and rad friends to adventure with.
When did you decide to sign up for the HT550?
I first heard about the Highland Trail when I moved to the Cairngorms in 2020. It seemed elusive and epic and entirely out of reach for me. I would read about it in hastily written entries to bothy visitor books and spot weary bikepackers raiding the reduced section in the Ullapool Tesco and wonder what it would feel like to experience that myself.
Then I started riding my bike in the mountains, surrounded by the many inspiring female riders in the Cairngorms, and without realising it the idea of riding the Trail slowly became more realistic. The first time I really considered signing up for HT550 was after bike-packing the Cairngorm Loop last summer. I loved every second of it and it gave me the confidence that maybe, just maybe, it wasn’t a ridiculous plan to try the HT550.
How competitive would you say you are?
I am competitive with myself, but rarely compare myself to others. I love pushing myself and finding out what I am capable of. The HT550 seems like the perfect place to test that out. It feels like there will be no way to fail – even if something happens that stops me completing the HT550 this year I will still have ridden my bike through beautiful places and learned so much about myself and the trail. I am just so stoked to meet the other riders on the trail and don’t plan on wasting any time worrying about the ‘race’ part of the event.
Nothing beats the simplicity of being on my bike, alone and fully immersed in the ride. Bikepacking is the most absorbing way I have found to move through a landscape and I cannot wait to deep dive into the Highlands and see what happens.
How much sleep are you aiming for, and how does that compare to how much sleep you usually get?
I’m aiming to ride for at least 16 hours a day and sleep for around 6 hours, but I am leaving the plan fully open to change. This will be my first bikepacking event so I’m intrigued to see how my body and mind reacts to pushing further than I have ridden before. My normal sleep pattern is very varied as my vet job involves on-call night shifts. It’s not uncommon to be up all night with emergencies so I’m hoping that being used to sleep deprivation will work in my favour…
What is the most miserable you’ve ever been while riding?
I was on a 5 day bike packing trip through the Highlands with my friend Bex in March this year. There was a huge variety in the terrain but it was mostly off-road with some long, occasionally snow filled hike-a-bikes. I somehow managed to bonk while riding into Invergarry. It made no sense – I was riding downhill on tarmac roads, with the promise of food not far away, yet I was miserable (as well as cold, hungry and with a tired body). Nothing about the situation was that bad yet my brain was determined to think the worst, in a true expression of mind over matter. It was easily fixed with a hot meal in the Invergarry pub, but it was the moment I realised I could never be a roadie. There is nothing like a savage hike-a-bike or some all consuming single track to get me fired up when I think I don’t have any energy left!
Photo by EdSmithPhoto
Alice Lemkes (@lemkiss) – 30 years old, limping to the end of a prolonged period of study, and based along the river Dee near the Cairngorms in Scotland. Friendships formed through the Adventure Syndicate have been fundamental in shaping my life over the last 5 years and I’m so grateful for them.
Why HT550?
The HT550 feels like a rare opportunity to be forced well out of my comfort zone whilst being immersed in wilder landscapes. I’m looking forward to being in, problem solving, and moving through the mountains and seeing very few people, whilst pushing myself physically and emotionally in a way I can only access in a competitive environment. I’m curious (and nervous) about how my body and mind will fare and how resilient I am when confronted with the unforeseen situations, the slow uncomfortable terrain, and the weather.
How competitive would you say you are?
Admitting I am competitive is an evolving thing for me at the moment. It’s a complex feeling, I think. I really don’t care to triumph over people, and there are lots of people that I am delighted to ride near to or alongside and celebrate their successes without feeling a loss. But there are times I’ve made decisions which have lost me a lot of time – and consequently places – which I realised at the end I wished I hadn’t, and realised that placing one or two higher meant something. At a recent enduro event I realised just how much holding on to 2nd place meant and I pushed myself harder than I might have otherwise. In the past I might have felt too self-conscious to overtly go hard and push pass people. But yes, placing ‘well’ on the HT matters to me. This might change when I’m out there and so many things can happen on the trail that are beyond physical ability that the question might cease to matter. Ultimately I can only try to ride well within a very, very strong field. I’d be delighted to know I had done that.
Have you made yourself a schedule you hope to stick to or will you be winging it?
No. I’ve read as many blogs and write-ups as I can get my hands on to see how far others have got day to day and I know roughly where I need to get to each night to finish within a certain amount of days. But there are infinite things that get in the way of that: weather mainly will slow things down and make me choose differently – where to stop, finding shelter, having a sit-down meal – as well as rivers in spate and what that means for when I can cross; mechanicals when there are no bike shops across the majority of the route. I’m keeping things loose but I wish I had recced the route in advance to have a vague idea of sheltered sleep spots.
How much sleep are you aiming for, and how does that compare to how much sleep you usually get?
Sleeeeeep! Sleep every night. 4 hours. 6 if everything feels horrible! But it often takes me an hour to get off which is annoyingly inefficient. What I lose in time I find I make up for in higher average speed – and happiness – as a result. Nothing worse than crawling along in a haze of swollen foggy eyes and being angry at the world for its inconveniences.
Oonagh Thin (@oonaghthin) – Hey, I’m Oonagh, 23 and live in Scotland. I basically just love being in the mountains and spend all my weekends exploring the wild parts of the north. I’m in my last year of studying medicine and have been lucky enough to get to spend most of the last months in the mountains on placement with lots of time to play outside. Maximising my free time before I start real work in July.
Why HT550?
I’d never heard of ultra-mtb races or anything like that until I was camping and cycling with my family on the weekend of the HT550 last year. We woke up in the morning and peered out of our tent to loads of bikepackers riding past us. It was cool to see all the different flashy bikes and variety of people going by. During the day, we ended cycling by some of the HT550 riders and realised why there were so many bikepackers in one place at one time! On the week of Alan’s deadline for applying, I just decided I might as well try it. My favourite sort of cycling is riding around the hills and bogs up north so it sounded like a good adventure!
What is your go to riding snack?
I eat a lot aha so I like the most calorie dense snacks. Recently I’ve been taking loads of chocolate waffles cause they are yummy, but also speedy to eat and you get almost 500 calories in 1. Ideal for me! Deffo not the healthiest but as a quick snack, they are pretty great!
What do you do when you’re not cycling?
I like to do anything outside, trad or winter climbing or big days out scrambling, or skiing or just general exploring. Living in Fort William the last month has been so much fun, with a mix of evening skiing gullies on Ben Nevis into the evening light, big mountain bike loops or riding ridges in the sun, cragging by the sea and eating ice-cream or scrambling around the mountains.
Philippa Battye (@philippabattye) – I’m currently based in rural Wiltshire, living in a self built cabin-on-wheels in the woods. I balance most of my time between being an architect, maker and long distance cyclist (and more recently a crossfit enthusiast 😂)
Why HT550?
It’s been on my radar for a few years and as time has passed has been inflated into this enigmatic feat encompassing all that could possibly be difficult about bikepacking! Now seems like the right time to up my bikepacking game, so HT550 it is. Scotland is also probably my favourite place in the world – I haven’t ridden any of the remoter parts of the route so am really excited to see what otherworldly (slog fest…) landscapes we’ll be lucky enough to push our bikes through.
How would you describe yourself as a cyclist?
Persistent?
What bike will you be riding and why?
The Mason RAW. A steel hardtail made in Scotland. Mason and I have built a really nice relationship over the past 5 years since buying my bokeh gravel bike from them. They kindly provided me with the RAW to enable me to up my off road game over the past few months and get to grips with proper mountain biking. It’s been a really satisfying evolution of what and where I feel comfortable riding, and so far has felt like the perfect bike for me.
Do you feel more excited or nervous?
It comes in waves, but mostly just excited now. It’s only a bike ride after all and it’s what I love to do!
Kasia Breska (@sticksandspokes) – Mostly a solo rider, loving big rocks, technical descents and steep and wild singletracks. I make beer for living, live creatively and recently became a student of Wildlife Conservation course. My aim is to develop a long lasting programme that connects bikepacking, art and wildlife conservation. I think HT550 is a good start 🙌
Why HT550?
Because it’s there! Just kidding, I love Scotland for its open spaces and fewer people, as well as the right to roam and wild camping rights. The remoteness of the route is extremely attractive as is the lengthy mileage allowing for a decent contemplation in nature.
Do you listen to music while racing? If so, what song never fails to get you pumped?
Probably Bruce Springsteen – ‘Dancing in the dark’ or AC/DC – ‘T.N.T’ or ‘Thunderstruck’. It’s difficult to choose one only haha. I am obsessive listener to music, podcasts and audiobooks when cycling.
How would you describe yourself as a cyclist?
Solo mountain biker, love shredding and technical riding with a wild camp overnighter. Environmentalist with a passion for photography and filming.
What are you bringing with you that you think you’ll be the only person to bring? and why are you bringing it?
My dog’s bandana so I can remember my fluffball, my little tinker ❤
Gail Brown (@g.h.brown) – I’m Gail, a Bristol based cyclist loving the fact I’ve found a sport that means I get to ride and eat all day long. That said, it doesn’t always have to be long – short rides for coffee and cake, riding to get around, chilled spins with mates, basically happy whenever on two wheels.
When did you decide to sign up for the HT500?
HT550 wasn’t on my radar for this year at all, I was thinking of something much less technical. But it’s amazing the power of hearing other women giving things a go – El, Phil and Beccy, local shredders around Bristol/Bath were all signed up. We did a number of silly challenges together this winter, the first of which involved seeing how many times we could cycle up and down Windy Gap in Wales in a 24hr period. HT550 Alan came over and camped up the top of the hill and gave us some support (and coffee), he mentioned I could have a place if I wanted one, I didn’t need much persuasion.
Do you feel more excited or nervous?
I feel a mixture of both, which is probably a really good sign. I like the feeling of entering a race where I’m really not sure whether I’ll finish. To explore what I’m capable of is really exciting. The things that make me nervous tend to be the fear of looking silly, for example I’m really scared of getting 5 minutes down the road and falling off in front of everyone, or getting a mechanical that I can’t fix, but the reality is that if that happened I’d just work through it and it’d probably make a hilarious or memorable story. So I am trying to not let those emotions get in the way of starting.
How would you describe yourself as a cyclist?
Enthusiastic. I really don’t care what type of cycling I’m doing. I enjoy it all. It’s funny but I still don’t consider myself a mountain biker, despite the fact it’s the bike I ride the most and I’ve owned it for 3 years now, I think I’ll always be more comfortable on the easy stuff.
What are you most looking forward to?
I can wait to be outside, eating, pedalling and walking in the stunning highlands. I can’t wait for the cackles of laughter when bumping into other riders and sharing stories. I can’t wait for seeing the dawn and dusk of each day. I can’t wait to get into the mindset where all I’m doing is taking care of myself and moving forwards along a pre-designed route, all other life stress fades away, it’s one of the best feelings in the world.
Taylor Doyle (@tay.velo) – I have only recently fallen in love with offroad ultra life. I am an enthusiastic bikepacker who is at home when challenging myself. I love encouraging people, who you might not normally see on the start line, to give it a go (whatever it may be!). I aim to share the magic and hype that I have been lucky enough to discover within the cycling community here, with as many folks as possible – it’s contagious I tell you!!!
When did you decide to sign up for the HT550?
This is an interesting one because it was fairly recently. I met the friendly HT550 Alan while riding Dales Divide a few weeks ago which was also a last minute decision. We ran into each other a few times throughout the race, it was always a jovial encounter (I can get really hyper during races). Most notably we crossed paths a few kms before the finish which we ended up riding together. Once we got to the pier where the race finished, he said two things to me; 1) that he could not believe how fast I had been descending off-road on a drop bar gravel bike, and 2) that if I wanted a spot on HT550, I had one. I said thank you, was flattered, and laughed it off. In the following days of recovery, I found myself unable to stop thinking about the prospect, something I had not expected! HT550 was something I assumed I would maybe consider next year, something only for the most serious of riders. But the more I thought about it, the more I realised hey—who knows what next year will look like? Who knows where I will be, what I will be up to, and if some big life thing will get in the way of HT550 in 2023. I rode the shit out of my bike this winter. I’m into off-road ultra riding NOW. And also, you know what, screw it, I am a serious rider! If not me, then who should be signing up to a race like this? About a week after the Dales Divide finished, I emailed Alan and asked if it wasn’t too late to redeem that spot. So here we are. Thanks Alan.
Is HT550 your big event of the year, or is it part of a training plan as you work towards something else?
Well, I didn’t think it was until a few weeks ago, now, I’m not so sure! This year’s riding so far has been revolving around the Pan Celtic Race in July, a (mostly) road-based ultra, which I rode in 2020 as my first ultra race ever and got hooked. It’s funny though, because all I’ve been doing is a heck tonne of off-road riding since then, which led to me doing Dales Divide last month, which led me to discovering that I bloody love off-roading in an ultra racing capacity. I rode Alan’s adjacent maniacal creation, the Lakeland 200, with Steezy Collective back in March, and that was another eye-opening experience, revealing to me what is possible over multiple days on a mountain bike. So much so, that we are planning on going back for some FKT attempts this summer. There are unofficial whisperings of getting on the start line of a certain offroad ultra race in Morocco this fall, but that’s currently still a dream. Back to the question though, I am still contemplating what HT550 will be for me this year, but one thing is for sure, I am quite excited to find out.
Eliza Sampey (@elizasampey) – I’m Eliza Sampey, and I live in my van in the southwestern United States with my dog Cody Oats. I’m a professional backcountry multisport athlete, and I own a small virtual adventure coaching and physiotherapy business. I’ve been racing bikes since 2010 and bikepacking around the world since 2015, but I’ve never been to Scotland and I’m stoked to come over and ride the Highland Trail!
How much sleep are you aiming for, and how does that compare to how much sleep you usually get?
Usually I don’t sleep too much during ultras as I try to be pretty competitive! However, I suffered a bad concussion near the end of 2020, and I have not yet made a successful return to racing. So for the HT550 my goal is to test my body and brain to see if I’m healthy enough to race again, which will probably mean being a bit more cautious, not pushing so hard, and getting more sleep this time around.
Why HT550?
I like races that have a lot of technical singletrack vs races that are more on doubletrack or roads, and the HT550 seems to have that. I’ve also never been to Scotland, and photos I’ve seen of the route are absolutely stunning. Since I’ll be sleeping more than usual and riding less at night, I’m excited to get to see most of this landscape in the daytime.
How would you describe yourself as a cyclist?
Although I do enjoy being competitive in races, what I love most about cycling is traveling through different landscapes and cultures on my bike. It’s fast enough that I get to experience a lot of variety over long distances, but slow enough that it’s easy to put a foot down and chat with people I meet along the way. I’ve been fortunate to travel through many places around the world on my bike, and it’s my favourite way to explore.
How much thought have you put into your bike and riding kit?
Quite a bit, and also not enough… or perhaps too much?! Haha. I’m riding my Revel Bikes Ranger decked out with Rogue Panda Designs bags, which will be amazing on this course, and that was an easy choice. But I’m not accustomed to riding in such wet climates (I’m a desert girl) and I’m also very afraid of the midges! So I’ve put a ton of thought into what I’ll bring for clothing and a sleep system, that’s pretty much all I’ve been thinking about since I signed up. The final decision will likely be made the night before the race when I’ve run out of time to deliberate, and then I’ll just trust it’ll all work out.
Cat Magill (@catrmag) – I’m Cat, and I’ve loved adventure cycling since my first cycle tour when I was 13. I’ve wandered through more than a few memorable places with an overloaded Surly and a pace slow enough to enjoy multiple cups of coffee in the morning before thinking about going anywhere. After exploring bits of the Highland Trail over the last few years, I’ve decided to give this a go, which will definitely be a change of pace.
Why HT550?
It’s on my doorstep. It’s also a chance to deepen my relationship with Scotland and embrace its ruggedness in every way. In the 8 years I have lived here, I have tried to avoid the hard parts of adventuring (bog, gales, driving rain…) and always wish for sunshine. I’m making a concerted effort to change that and really dig in to the challenging moments and not resent them.
What are you most looking forward to?
The Northern Loop. I did it with a friend a few years ago and it was full of stunning surprises.
How much thought have you put into your bike and riding kit?
Way too much. I had to get a new bike early this year, which wasn’t part of the plan, and that set off a death spiral of upgrading kit. I had been pootling around on my Surly Troll with some fairly basic kit, including a few homemade bags and a sleeping bag that leaves a sprinkling of feathers in my tent every night. Bikepacking has come a long way since I last bought kit, so I’ve done an immense amount of research and googling – but in the end it’s experience that’s invaluable to know what works and what doesn’t.
Have you made yourself a schedule you hope to stick to or will you be winging it?
Winging it! I’m going to have a list of all the important details (what shops are open when and how long I estimate each section will take) and then see how things go. I was getting a little stressed about training and prep, so I’ve decided to take this year as a learning year, see how I get on, and then maybe in the future I can try for a more focussed plan and faster time.
Jade Saskia Field (@jade_saskia) – I’m a cycle tourer who got home from a 14 month cycle tour and got into ultra cycling because I couldn’t stop riding my bike, but now have to fit it around working. I love riding off road, hikeabike and getting as remote as possible.
Why HT550?
I’d been eyeing up the route for a few years, desperately keen to do it but completely lacking the confidence to sign up. My partner had been steadfastly refusing to do it with me as a holiday. When my friend Carl said he was going to sign up, I realised I couldn’t just sit at home dotwatching him. I basically signed up because of FOMO! But I love Scotland and I want to challenge myself with a technical route. I did the Lakeland 200 with Steezy at the start of the year, and loved the route a lot, so I have high hopes the HT550 will be even better!
Do you feel more excited or nervous?
I am wildly swinging between the two! I feel very nervous that I’m going to make a complete fool of myself but I am excited to be out in the wild, cycling on trails I haven’t ridden before.
How would you describe yourself as a cyclist?
Slow, determined, and a very cautious descender!
Are you doing the HT550 in the women’s category but not contributed yet? Drop us a line on hello@steezycollective.com so we can add you! Include a photo and the answers to the above Qs.
